Late Season Transplanting

Not knowing what the "specific plant/s" in question... This Information is intended for the majority of flowering plants needing that for some reason, are to be transplanted (and/or divided, etc.) later in the growing season, when at a higher failure hisk...

All plants, no matter how durable, will suffer "some" if divided and or transplanted mid-flowering. However the extend and severity will greatly depend on the type of plant, where it's currently growing (full sun, dry, sheltered etc...) where it's being transplanted to etc.

"Many can" be done later in the growing season... "HOWEVER..." To minimize risks, this should be done after the ground has been deeply watered, and later in the eve or earlier in the day, when it's cooler (preferably on an overcast/cooler day)

The blooms currently on it can be more of a danger than it's worth to keep them on. Trim back the plant (up to 1/3) starting with blossoms... This will help the plant be able to focus on the important task of re-establishing itself, rather than trying to multi-task (the re-establishing and keeping the foilage and the highly demanding blossoms alive) all at the same time.

The ground it's to be re-located into should be prepared well (preferably with some organinc material like a little composting and peat moss... worked into the soil to ensure nutrients and some moisture retaining ability...)water the new hole well before placing the newly transplanted plants within... and be sure to keep them at the same depth as originaly. After placement, fill soil in place, pressing gently to be sure no air bubbles are trapped, but not to compact the soil... Water well.

Provide some protection the 1st few days (especialy important in the hottest part of the day...)while the plant is trying to recouperate from the transplant shock/stress.

Don't allow the plant to totaly dry (Not even drought tolerant ones, which still need to become established before they're actually, "Drought tolerant...") out, the roots will be trying to re-establish themselves. (Regular watering can be resumed when new growth appears, indicating probable new root growth...)

Use of Bleach in Gardening?

Dish Soap In The Garden?

Plant ID Sources
Better Homes & Gardens
TimeLife Virtual Garden

Plant Yellowing
As always there could be a number of things... Most commonly however you need to look at these primary factors.

WATERING - Over or Under
FEEDINGS - Fertalizer need or Over Dosing, also Pets use...
LIGHTING - Too little lighting.
MULCHING - Nitrogen depletion

Poke finger down into the soil and note if (under the top layer or about an inch into the soil...)it's feeling dry, normal/ok, moist, damp, wet or even soggy - mushy...

First off, if any are the later, (wet, soggy or mushy ...) Tackle these...

Initialy, if you have any saucers, trays or drip pans under them, remove them now to be sure they are being able to rid themselves of any and all excess fluids ASAP. In this situation there are a couple of things than can help, although, theres no promises... Mostly, it'll depend on how long they've been already setting wet and on how soon you can get them to a safer level.

The First few ones, are Fairly basic, yet, I've found many people, (mostly due to a sence of sudden panic, I think, at the though of their plants drowning... Don't think of the following...) If, you've done, them, then just skip ahead some...

1st
Removal of all bases from the planters. If they are on valuable furniture, I'd advise either temporarily re-locating, (a good idea anyhow if you've a balcony, patio, or some counterspace you can spare for a day or 2... If there's a way to move them to the other side of the house, in a room with 8-10 hours of sun, even if only for a few days, this will help get the plants using any water that is surrounding their roots at present.

2nd
A ventitated room (free flowing air via open windo is great!) THe circulating moving air will also help in drying the soil. I wouldn't recomend this on an off day, if it were too cold on one of the days, and the plants are/were already weakened., this could surely, put one or 2 over the top... However, this being the warmer season, you should do okay in that area.

Placing them outdoors is really a great idea, as long as they aren't placed, out in the sun.

These are plants, that no matter how much they may love they sun, they'll probably burn fairly quickly unless you work them out gradualy in hopes to try them outdoors through the summer, where they'll stand a better chance of not becoming waterlogged & can begin receiving more daylight if there is a sheltered location that sounds favorable.

3rd.
If you've a few extra heavy towels, begin placing one, folded into quarters (or what ever works for the size planters you're tackling...)
Now instead of setting the planters onto their usual saucers trays etc., set them on the folded towels.

Be sure to change them in a couple of hours, as they will begin sucking the moisture from the soil like a reverse wicking...

If things haven't gone too far already, they might be able to finish the job on their own after a couple of towel changes.

What ever you do, DON'T try pressing the moisture out of the soil! This will ony add to the problem GREATLY, and probably seal the plants fates all by suffocating the roots...

4th If the plants haven't been repotted in a while, this would be a great time to transplant any that are needing, as the roots will have been fully watered prior to the procedure, this alone will be able to work wonders as long as the plants aren't in a serious state yet.

Remember that during times of cooler weather and or shorter daylight exposure, plants need to have the wqatering cut back... They won't be needing the "normal amout of watering."

However, this case could prove much simpler. I would advise, assisting the plant in ridding the excess amount, even if only slightly a problem. (If this isn't a issue yet, continuing with wet soil especially, with already stressed plants, will likely turn into an issue soon enough.)
Again, use the simple methods of, increasing air flow, reverse wicking (toweling, removing pans etc... Preferable re-locating to another area for the season.

IF you are finding the soil more like a damp sponge or dryer, You could be facing one of several other problems.

PALE FOILAGE With DARK VEIGNS is most often an iron deficiency. Use of a fertalizer with iron will help greatly here. You can also, use a couple drops of liquid, "Centrum Vitamin," added to the next feeding for a quick fix.

PALE FOILAGE OVERALL can often indicate a need for more lighting. (not necessarily more direct lighting, however the length of daylight needs to be a minimum of 8-10 hours daily during the growing season and for most plants, 6-8 hours doring the resting season... Realize some plants require little to no lighting at certain periods in their lives... "get to know your plants needs...") This symptom may or may not be accompanied be weak / leggy / spindly growth as another sign of needing more light. Plants will try to reach out for light, rather than fill out first...

PALE FOILAGE FROM THE BOTTOM (With or Without) LEGGY GROWTH
Is often from a nitrogen deficiency. An easy, quick fix is to add 1-2 TBS. (per gallom of water) of common household ammonia to the next watering. If it's in outdoor plants that have heavy mulching like wood chips, This nitrogen deficiency can be common because the plants are competing with the organic material as it is breaking down.

With EDGE BROWNING- Normally, (if the soil isn't in a waterlogged state...) I would advise flushing your soil, showering the plants until the water that flows from the bottoms, begins to flow, clear again. If a plant has been in the same soil for a while, (many are surprized at the color that can begin flowing from the base of the plant where the water is flushing out...)

Also, Edge browning can be from sun exposure during peak "hot" periods. Either provide some protection from the hottest sun by either moving the plant or placement of a difuser like sheer curtains or other means in the direction from where the hottest sun hits.

If this doesn't work, or seems like it's not the problem, If you've ruled out prolonged stading water in the soil, go over the plants thoroughly to be sure there isn't a insect problen hiding in the midst, by pouring tonights cooled, dish soap in the plants soil, You can find out within 15-30 minutes most often, if theres a soil insect problem, as they will begin to come to the surface, where you can take appropriate control/elimination action.

IF...
You haven't really found much proof of overwatering, and no signs of pests, I would suggest flushing the soil anyhow... (many don't realize the benefits of a yearly flushing of potted plants. mine get a min. of 2 yearly...)

If the problem wasn't from salts and minerals etc., built up, then it's likely, from either, "Overfeeding" on someones part, (the browning edges... plus/or the accellerated growth. would suggest an abundance of plant food in either the intentional, prepared and applied form... "or from a family pet...")

If a family pet has taken to the soil, the plants will experience some sudden growth from the added organics, but it will just as soon, also begin dying if not flushed well.

The plants roots will soon burn from the concentration and die from being un-able to take up water etc.,

Try tossing some of these thoughts around, if any hit home but leave you with still unanswer questions, feel free to search more through my Q & A or Ask me a specific Question at AskMe.Com