First off..." Lets be absolutely sure you have an Abandoned or Orphaned animal."

It is Not Uncommon for a wild animal to leave their very young unattended, especially when they feel a possible threat,
(like when humans are near,,,) is getting close to their young.

It's not cruel... By not bringing unnecessary attention to,
(or by drawing it away from the nest site...)
It is how many animals such as the rabbit , deer , various
(ground level or near ground level) nesting birds and several other animals, attempt to protect their young.

Now, if you have already completely, removed them,
(no longer in the same area - no longer have access to their nesting site)
the damage is already done. They need lots of help to survive now...
Lets work with what we have, and remember sometimes these don't always have a happy ending Just giving them a chance is worth it all though...
But now, if they're to have any chance at surviving at all, we've got to try,
Now, Chin Up... Lets take care of the little ones... Okay?

In, "most," situations... "YOU CAN," place a baby back with the parent/s,
where it belongs... Your smell "Won't," cause it to be killed.

The "myth" that their parents will kill, their young if habndled by humans was likely intended to discourage the merely curious, who find healthy babies (that shouldn't be handled at all) and "just want to hold or touch them,
or for "not," over-handling those only needing minor assistance...
Although well intended, It's effect over the years may have caused more harm,
(unnecessary deaths,) than good, to countless, saveable young.

No matter how good the quality of, "Human Foster Parenting," may be, they're nearly always better off being reared by their "Real Parents..."

Yes, they will have your scent, but if handling is kept to a minimal, there will still be some trace of their Identifiable scent and as long as their parents can still find their scent, "somewhere," on them, they will be accepted back.
(In otherwards, the sooner they're replaced... The better for them - Don't you agree?)

It is preferable to return them to their parents when ever possible, but if that isn't possible, I strongly Suggest/Request that you seek out a Qualified Care Provider, (Rehaber/Veterinarian, etc.)
The information here is NOT intended to take the place of a Qualified Caregiver...
There are so many situation variables possible that this page could not cover everything & is only intended for "initial, very, short-term care..."

Again, I strongly suggest you get them to a rehaber or qualified caregiver ASAP!

PLEASE, contact a professional for assistance or any Emergency situation...

First off - COMFORT and SECURITY!
Nearly all babies will need a warm, (stay in an *acceptable safe temp. range until you find out differently...) quiet, secluded place, preferably dark,
(this is especially important if there are any signs of shock...)
*Acceptable Safe Temperature Range is mid 70 to early 80's, (degrees...)

Make sure curious children (and/or family pets,) do not have any unattended and/or unsupervised access (if any access at all,) to where the baby/babies are kept.

Be Sure they can not fall or roll, by keeping in a VENTILATED cardboard box if at all possible or a similar warm, safe, secure place and away from soft plastics Such as plastic grocery bags!

RECAP

• Safest Temperature Range 75-80 degrees
• Quiet
• Low Lighting
• Secure

INITIAL CARE - The exceptions
The only other time that any other initial care should ever come prior to getting the baby/babies comfortable would be due to if there are injuries, suffering from dehydration or other critical urgencies.

DEHYDRATION

DO get fluids to the animal as soon as possible. (Most often if only abandoned, and not showing obvious signs of dehydration, fluids are NOT necessary, as the they will receive what they need from fluids in feedings...)

DON'T allow or give more than a few mouthfulls initially and allow a few minutes in between the first couple of drinks, extremely dehydrated animals, (and humans) tend to throw everything right back up if they take in too much, too quickly. Gradually increase when you're sure they can handle (if they still desire,) more.
Move on to the comfort step...

INJURED
Injured animals need qualified medical attention as soon as possible.
First Aid - See information below (for cleaning etc., seek qualified medical attention immidiately if necessary!)

For feline (cat) induced injuries, it is highly important to seek medical attention or advice at once! Cats can literaly "poison," (by a bacteria,) many small animals such as birds, mice, chipmonks, etc... If a cat has broken the skin, consult your Vet for further attention..

NOTE: Most Vet offices are willing to give some advice initially over the phone, call 1 (or 2 if the 1st one won't.) It's rare to run into any good Veterinarian that won't give some sort of (even if only, simple/light,) phone advice initially... (if you do run into one who won't. help, Remember who cared & who didn't, next time you're in the market for a Good Vet... )

ALSO, if injuries are deep, possibly internal or otherwise serious, contact a Vet immidiately!

"Above All Else"
Always Get them to Qualified Caregivers as Soon as Possible!

FACTS OF LIFE for small caged critters

WILDLIFE CARE

NATIONAL OPOSSUM SOCIETY

First Aid Helpers

• Lavender! Calms, helps relax them and helps to keep airborne bacteria levels lower!
  It's been a lifesaver here many-a-time!
  
  Place a drop of the essence on a piece of cloth within their immidiate area.
  
  
• Cotton Swabs
  For cleaning and applying ointment.
  
  
• Neosporin
  or other tripple antibacterial ointment.

Be sure to thoroughly clean all wounds.
Apply a thin film or layer of antibacterial ointment.

Bandage if possible, however, many wild animals won't allow this, or won't keep any bandaging in place under normal circumstances.

For Dehydration see the Dehydration section, (above.)

Shock is what many injured animals are in greatest danger of initially. The smaller critters, like tiny birds,
(or those with a higher degree of ijuries)
are the most likely to go into some state of shock that could affect them,
(possibly even kill them.)

Fear will often add to the problem.
These animals "need" complete rest in a warm, quiet, dark or dimmed, & secure environment.

Do not try to force feed any food or water to an animal in shock.
After they have relaxed, try getting them to eat a small amount of foods typical for them.

Always keep a fresh source of food & water nearby, Realizing, they may not want any of it initially and the very young won't be able to feed themselves at all.

FEEDING - FOOD SOURCES

SEED Eaters can be fed a blend of wild bird seed, placed in a flat dish.
If un-able to feed it'self, try using a moistened, pablum, (dry, baby Rice/Oatmeal Flakes, moistened,)

-> Food can be fed using a plastic eye dropper,
(or similar device...)

FRUIT & NUT Eaters can be fed cut or diced fruits, (preferrably native fruits if available,)
Plastic mayonaise lids are excellent feed dishes...
Be sure to keep a fresh selection available at all times.
If unable to feed itself, use a well blended,
soft fruit, mixed fresh or purchased baby food.
When in doubt, mix a blend of pablum in fruit.

INSECT Eaters prefer live insects. Often they will accept a canned dog food &/or earthworms
(minced - for the little ones who need help, place into the back of their mouths, at throat...)

*CARION Eaters eat almost everything and anything - Proper nutrition would include:
use any of (or combination of,) the following:

*Carion Eaters include birds like Ravens...
*Birds that eat everything, incl. other smaller birds

• Soft/Canned Dog or Cat Food
• Baby food (mixed meals, vegetables &/or fruits... )
• Mixed/Blended portions (from balanced meals.)

What we do today - will echo for an eternity...